Day 35
On Saturday an east wind slipped
through the mountains out to sea and loved what it found. It told
its friends and soon more and more came. By Sunday they were flying. The
forecast called for a southeast wind, but I'd met the southeast wind
before, and perhaps if I stood at the top of a mountain I could look
to the southeast and feel the wind on my face, but down at sea level,
the wind raced out of the fjords, whether they were pointed to the
southeast, east, or northeast. I chose a route
that would leave me sheltered from the wind by islands, except for
when I crossed to and from them.
I hoped that this time the wind would
really be more from the south, and as I headed northwest up to the
end of the peninsula it was. I turned north and crossed into the
arctic circle. A monument on an island marks the line and I
celebrated achieving my trips major secondary objective. I hadn't
found Slartibartfast's plaque, but I found the Arctic's and rejoiced
with song.
I cut due north to the archipelago that
would shelter me from the wind. The crossing was slow and the arctic
waters sloshed around over my boat bouncing it up and down. Not
even a little bit of the wind came from the south, it was straight
out of the fjord, north east.
With the shelter of the islands the
wind flashed from calm to sprint in every direction. The water densely
rippled around me without enough fetch to grow
into anything more formidable. My next crossing would be much
longer. Tomorrow the weather would be much better. The sun was
bright and beautiful and the weather warm, but if I got separated
from my boat in wind and waves during the crossing, the arctic waters
would suck the life out of me like a monkey with a yogurt tube.
I've never been separated from my kayak
before, and I haven't missed a roll in a long time, but better safe
than a discarded monkey's yogurt tube.
I pulled into a small harbor and was
invited to stay in a lovely guest apartment. Check out
www.Helgelandsidyll.no if you're looking to visit Norway. The shower
handle has a digital temperature display, and if that's not enough
the owner rents kayaks and it's one of the most beautiful places to
paddle in the world.
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