Beloved reader, my computer broke a few months ago and my smart phone yesterday. Sadly, baring a substantial jump in contributions and a corresponding new piece of technology, my blogging will stagger or cease all together. The good news is that I will keep a journal and my stories will likely be available in my upcoming book, tentatively named, The Theseus Kayak.
Thank you all for coming with me this far, go now and embrace life.
Friday, June 20, 2014
Tuesday, June 10, 2014
Day 142
It's wrong to strike at someone's dignity because of their sexuality, since one has nothing to do with the other. Every human on God's green earth should be able to marry whomever they please provided 1) The couple shares a mutual loving relationship. 2) You may not marry a sibling, descendant, or ancestor - unless time travel is involved. 3) You may not marry your cat.
Day 142:
5/27/2014
Last night I found wifi and an electrical outlet behind a closed beach bar. After a couple of hours the owners found me and chased me away.
The hotel staff that was working on the beach brought me 12 liters of 750ml bottled water before my launch even though I'm happy to drink from the tap. A little dysentery now and then makes a fellow strong. I appreciated the gesture.
They waved to me as I paddled away and I gave a goodbye roll.
I packed the extra water in my 10 liter bag so that I could camp for the night, halfway to my next supply point. The larger than usual water bag displaced my bread bag, and I had to smush it under my leg rather than balance it between them.
I don't know if it's because my cockpit is leaking or if it was water that I took on during the goodbye roll, but my bread got soggy. Yuck.
I still had the chia maca drink. It got me about half the distance I needed to paddle for the day.
I could camp, but the only place to resupply tomorrow was in the wrong direction. I found a deep sheltered bay and got directions to the nearest restaurant-market, a mere ten miles crossing in the right direction.
I set out, into a sudden strong headwind, paddled for ten minutes, and turned around broken before the tears came.
Back in the bay there were four sailboats. I asked for supplies and got invited for tea onto a double masted sailing yacht.
I climbed up the ladder and Jan, my welcoming host, introduced me to his friend Sven.
"Well Hellooo!" Sven said with a strong effeminate intonation.
"Hi!"
After tea and regaling the party of 11 happy Dutch sailors with stories I got to shower. Sven lent me his comb to work the budding dreadlocks out of my hair. It was a loud painful process. Sven offered to comb my hair for me but I, a bit too quickly, declined.
Later, while we drank wine and beer I learned more about my hosts. Sven's husband was Jewish. There were two other married gay couples on board, Jan who was throwing the week long trip as a 74th* birthday party, and a number of single women. Everyone was over 60.
Apparently Sven had previously worked as a hairdresser and it was in that capacity that he had offered to comb my hair.
After drinking was dinner with more wine and singing. There were lots of yummy salads.
Thank you Jan for a wonderful rejuvenating evening that I will remember as one of the highlights of my trip.
On the pristine beach I slept like a king.
* I want to stress here that some of the names and numbers are only half remembered from a long joy filled evening.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="5020,5019,5018,5017,5016,5015,5014,5012,5011,5010,5009,5008,5006,5007,4991,4990"]
Nautical miles paddled: 14
Current location: 36.61781,28.864936
Day 142:
5/27/2014
Last night I found wifi and an electrical outlet behind a closed beach bar. After a couple of hours the owners found me and chased me away.
The hotel staff that was working on the beach brought me 12 liters of 750ml bottled water before my launch even though I'm happy to drink from the tap. A little dysentery now and then makes a fellow strong. I appreciated the gesture.
They waved to me as I paddled away and I gave a goodbye roll.
I packed the extra water in my 10 liter bag so that I could camp for the night, halfway to my next supply point. The larger than usual water bag displaced my bread bag, and I had to smush it under my leg rather than balance it between them.
I don't know if it's because my cockpit is leaking or if it was water that I took on during the goodbye roll, but my bread got soggy. Yuck.
I still had the chia maca drink. It got me about half the distance I needed to paddle for the day.
I could camp, but the only place to resupply tomorrow was in the wrong direction. I found a deep sheltered bay and got directions to the nearest restaurant-market, a mere ten miles crossing in the right direction.
I set out, into a sudden strong headwind, paddled for ten minutes, and turned around broken before the tears came.
Back in the bay there were four sailboats. I asked for supplies and got invited for tea onto a double masted sailing yacht.
I climbed up the ladder and Jan, my welcoming host, introduced me to his friend Sven.
"Well Hellooo!" Sven said with a strong effeminate intonation.
"Hi!"
After tea and regaling the party of 11 happy Dutch sailors with stories I got to shower. Sven lent me his comb to work the budding dreadlocks out of my hair. It was a loud painful process. Sven offered to comb my hair for me but I, a bit too quickly, declined.
Later, while we drank wine and beer I learned more about my hosts. Sven's husband was Jewish. There were two other married gay couples on board, Jan who was throwing the week long trip as a 74th* birthday party, and a number of single women. Everyone was over 60.
Apparently Sven had previously worked as a hairdresser and it was in that capacity that he had offered to comb my hair.
After drinking was dinner with more wine and singing. There were lots of yummy salads.
Thank you Jan for a wonderful rejuvenating evening that I will remember as one of the highlights of my trip.
On the pristine beach I slept like a king.
* I want to stress here that some of the names and numbers are only half remembered from a long joy filled evening.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="5020,5019,5018,5017,5016,5015,5014,5012,5011,5010,5009,5008,5006,5007,4991,4990"]
Nautical miles paddled: 14
Current location: 36.61781,28.864936
Monday, June 9, 2014
Day 141
I set out due east and paddled 19 miles on the same bearing with a tailwind. At my midpoint, the nearest land, a few miles off, was a small island at the head of three bays.
I was getting tired. The last of my gogo juice tasted off, probably from the heat. I forced it down and immediately regretted it. My last two miles were mired in sea sickness.
A vast beach spread out ahead of me. Wind surfers were flying off waves and banana boats were zooming around. I don't get banana boats.
Apparently my stop for the night is a popular tourist hotel destination.
I don't have a room and the security people and staff don't seem to want me around. No, I may not use the wifi. Hopefully they won't trouble me after they realize I'm sleeping here.
I found a tree with sweet berries growing in the higher branches, so I climbed it and gorged myself until my fingers were purple. Yummm.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="4991,4990,4966,4989,4987,4985,4984,4974,4975,4988,4982"]
Nautical miles paddled: 22.5
Current location: 36.700675,28.692673
I was getting tired. The last of my gogo juice tasted off, probably from the heat. I forced it down and immediately regretted it. My last two miles were mired in sea sickness.
A vast beach spread out ahead of me. Wind surfers were flying off waves and banana boats were zooming around. I don't get banana boats.
Apparently my stop for the night is a popular tourist hotel destination.
I don't have a room and the security people and staff don't seem to want me around. No, I may not use the wifi. Hopefully they won't trouble me after they realize I'm sleeping here.
I found a tree with sweet berries growing in the higher branches, so I climbed it and gorged myself until my fingers were purple. Yummm.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="4991,4990,4966,4989,4987,4985,4984,4974,4975,4988,4982"]
Nautical miles paddled: 22.5
Current location: 36.700675,28.692673
Sunday, June 8, 2014
Day 140
Day 140:
I paddled on glassy waters under orange and red speckled cliffs. I only had a short distance to go, so I took the time to explore the nooks and crannies of the coast. I was rewarded with a crack in the rock that turned out to be a sea cave.
Çiftlik Coyu is a tiny collection of houses and restaurants on an island-protected bay. Sailboats and calm waters are surrounded by steep hills and the sandy beaches are warm and bright in the sun.
Hot showers grow on trees and smiles abound. It's a wonderful place to spend the Sabbath.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="4961,4960,4959,4958,4955,4956,4954,4952,4951,4950,4949,4948,4947,4946,4944,4943,4942,4941,4939,4938,4896"]
Nautical miles paddled: 7.5
Current location: 36.715161,28.237159
I paddled on glassy waters under orange and red speckled cliffs. I only had a short distance to go, so I took the time to explore the nooks and crannies of the coast. I was rewarded with a crack in the rock that turned out to be a sea cave.
Çiftlik Coyu is a tiny collection of houses and restaurants on an island-protected bay. Sailboats and calm waters are surrounded by steep hills and the sandy beaches are warm and bright in the sun.
Hot showers grow on trees and smiles abound. It's a wonderful place to spend the Sabbath.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="4961,4960,4959,4958,4955,4956,4954,4952,4951,4950,4949,4948,4947,4946,4944,4943,4942,4941,4939,4938,4896"]
Nautical miles paddled: 7.5
Current location: 36.715161,28.237159
Thursday, June 5, 2014
Day 139
5/22/2014
After a last desperate losing battle with customs I launched with my new gear and left Greece behind. The sea was calm and I passed and waved to several sailboats as I crossed to Turkey.
Once I rounded the headland the strengthening beam wind turned into a tailwind and I made good time.
But I was drinking potato soup instead of chia maca gogo juice and I was tiring. And I also had to poop. At 16:00, still 10 miles away from my destination, I headed into a beautiful bay at the edge of a thickly wooded ravine. There might be spots of fresh water in the otherwise dry stream bed.
Near the beach I found a shallow well with a few inches of clear sweet water and a pile of donkey poop.
I could beat into the bush and climb up the stream bed or paddle out to the moored sailboat and ask for drinking water. The boat flew an American flag. One of the sailors even spoke a little English and they were happy to provide me with some bottles of water.
The bay was protected by an island and I went through my repertoire of rolls on the pristine water.
While I was training in Symi I was very pleased, after years of working at it off and on, to get the hang of a reverse sweep roll. I remembered long ago drills and a brief lesson given to me by the kayak wizard Jack Gilman, and with his teaching, lots of failed attempts, and warm water I finally got it down.
In the wilderness bay I also performed on both sides my C to C, sweep, butterfly, shotgun, and crook of elbow rolls. Up next, spine roll.
Sadly, I've lost my once reliable hand roll, but hopefully it will be easy to remaster once I have a wide repertoire of Greenland rolls.
I lay down on the beach and was asleep as soon as my head hit my life jacket.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="1400934030637,4896,4895,4894,4893,4892,4891,4890,4887,4888,4886,4885,4884,4883,4881,4880,4878,4879,4877,4876,4873,4875"]
Nautical miles paddled: 20
Current location: 36.650029,28.14211
After a last desperate losing battle with customs I launched with my new gear and left Greece behind. The sea was calm and I passed and waved to several sailboats as I crossed to Turkey.
Once I rounded the headland the strengthening beam wind turned into a tailwind and I made good time.
But I was drinking potato soup instead of chia maca gogo juice and I was tiring. And I also had to poop. At 16:00, still 10 miles away from my destination, I headed into a beautiful bay at the edge of a thickly wooded ravine. There might be spots of fresh water in the otherwise dry stream bed.
Near the beach I found a shallow well with a few inches of clear sweet water and a pile of donkey poop.
I could beat into the bush and climb up the stream bed or paddle out to the moored sailboat and ask for drinking water. The boat flew an American flag. One of the sailors even spoke a little English and they were happy to provide me with some bottles of water.
The bay was protected by an island and I went through my repertoire of rolls on the pristine water.
While I was training in Symi I was very pleased, after years of working at it off and on, to get the hang of a reverse sweep roll. I remembered long ago drills and a brief lesson given to me by the kayak wizard Jack Gilman, and with his teaching, lots of failed attempts, and warm water I finally got it down.
In the wilderness bay I also performed on both sides my C to C, sweep, butterfly, shotgun, and crook of elbow rolls. Up next, spine roll.
Sadly, I've lost my once reliable hand roll, but hopefully it will be easy to remaster once I have a wide repertoire of Greenland rolls.
I lay down on the beach and was asleep as soon as my head hit my life jacket.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="1400934030637,4896,4895,4894,4893,4892,4891,4890,4887,4888,4886,4885,4884,4883,4881,4880,4878,4879,4877,4876,4873,4875"]
Nautical miles paddled: 20
Current location: 36.650029,28.14211
The Legend of the Mountain Man
5/15/2014
Symi was the domain of King Nireus. He loved Helen, so when the time came, he joined the campaign against Troy. His renowned good looks did not protect him. He died in battle for love.
I have now spent a number of days in Symi. Much of that time has been used to write and edit pictures. Maintaining my blog is hard work, but I do so hoping my readers will contribute and make finishing this quest and starting the next one in good time a reality. I've also been working on my Greenland rolls, mending my life jacket and pants, bleaching my water bag, washing my clothing, patching my water bag and generally getting overdue logistics done.
Hopefully my negotiations with customs are at an end and I will receive my package on the island's mail day, Wednesday.
Theseus's ship was damaged in battle, and some of the boards needed to be replaced. The vessel hit a sandbar, and some of the boards needed to be replaced. There were termites, and pirates, and sea monsters, and so many of the boards had been replaced that Plato wondered if it was still the same ship or an entirely new vessel.
I repaired 16 leaks in my hull and gunnels over three sessions during my stay. Most of them were the result of old patches degrading; so I sanded, taped, and epoxied. I'm using a new kind of repair goo, hopefully it will last longer.
I met a man who liked my shoes, or lack thereof.
"My family is called the shoeless family. I remember my grandfather. He climbed all the mountains on the island with a pair of hiking boots slung over his shoulder. He lived to be 99."
The Aegean resonated in his bones.
The Charites, demi gods of charm, beauty, and nature, daughters of Dionysus and Aphrodite were born here. It suits the place
I called FedEx to change the package destination to future Greek islands. I hate waiting like this. They can't do it. The courier that they are committed to work with, unlike the Greek post, does not deliver out there.
I came up from a reverse sweep roll. My glasses were gone. The fact that I was sure I tied them on didn’t make them less gone. The wind was pushing my boat, so I looked around and set boundaries for my search area. I was about 30 feet from the beach and the crystal clear water was maybe 15 feet deep. The sea floor was covered with algae growing rocks.
I beached my boat and dove. From up above I hadn’t realized how many fish were swimming down there.
When I came back up I saw a dinghy was carrying a couple crewmen from a luxurious double masted sailing yacht to shore. I called to them and explained my problem. Soon after they returned with a snorkel mask, flippers, and Piere.
Pierre and I searched for the glasses. We swam on the surface and dived down until I was so cold I was shaking. We didn't find them.
My vision is -2.25. I hope that's good enough to safely finish my trip.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="4864,4863,4862,4861,4859,4858,4851,4850,4849,4848,4845,4844"]
Symi was the domain of King Nireus. He loved Helen, so when the time came, he joined the campaign against Troy. His renowned good looks did not protect him. He died in battle for love.
I have now spent a number of days in Symi. Much of that time has been used to write and edit pictures. Maintaining my blog is hard work, but I do so hoping my readers will contribute and make finishing this quest and starting the next one in good time a reality. I've also been working on my Greenland rolls, mending my life jacket and pants, bleaching my water bag, washing my clothing, patching my water bag and generally getting overdue logistics done.
Hopefully my negotiations with customs are at an end and I will receive my package on the island's mail day, Wednesday.
Theseus's ship was damaged in battle, and some of the boards needed to be replaced. The vessel hit a sandbar, and some of the boards needed to be replaced. There were termites, and pirates, and sea monsters, and so many of the boards had been replaced that Plato wondered if it was still the same ship or an entirely new vessel.
I repaired 16 leaks in my hull and gunnels over three sessions during my stay. Most of them were the result of old patches degrading; so I sanded, taped, and epoxied. I'm using a new kind of repair goo, hopefully it will last longer.
I met a man who liked my shoes, or lack thereof.
"My family is called the shoeless family. I remember my grandfather. He climbed all the mountains on the island with a pair of hiking boots slung over his shoulder. He lived to be 99."
The Aegean resonated in his bones.
The Charites, demi gods of charm, beauty, and nature, daughters of Dionysus and Aphrodite were born here. It suits the place
I called FedEx to change the package destination to future Greek islands. I hate waiting like this. They can't do it. The courier that they are committed to work with, unlike the Greek post, does not deliver out there.
I came up from a reverse sweep roll. My glasses were gone. The fact that I was sure I tied them on didn’t make them less gone. The wind was pushing my boat, so I looked around and set boundaries for my search area. I was about 30 feet from the beach and the crystal clear water was maybe 15 feet deep. The sea floor was covered with algae growing rocks.
I beached my boat and dove. From up above I hadn’t realized how many fish were swimming down there.
When I came back up I saw a dinghy was carrying a couple crewmen from a luxurious double masted sailing yacht to shore. I called to them and explained my problem. Soon after they returned with a snorkel mask, flippers, and Piere.
Pierre and I searched for the glasses. We swam on the surface and dived down until I was so cold I was shaking. We didn't find them.
My vision is -2.25. I hope that's good enough to safely finish my trip.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="4864,4863,4862,4861,4859,4858,4851,4850,4849,4848,4845,4844"]
Monday, June 2, 2014
Day 138
5/11/2014
The sun shone and the water was the calmest I've seen it since before the Aegean. A new chapter of my quest began.
I paddled along the coast of Turkey. The mountains above me were a blend of sweet smelling forest and scrub lands.
I entered a cave and paddled a hundred feet into the side of a mountain, then used my hands to pull myself 50 more. The tunnel was dark and tight; I chose not to go further without a headlamp. Hopefully I will soon be receiving one in the mail.
I crossed six miles to Symi, my last Aegean island.
The town of Ano sits on a wide natural harbor with a view of red and purple Turkish mountains. The harbor is surrounded by steeply climbing pastel and stone houses. It's the tourist season and services like wifi and showers are largely only available to people with money.
It is not a welcoming place, but somehow I've been conned into waiting here for my package of emergency gear. Hopefully it'll come soon.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="1400499580318,4843,4842,4841,4840,4839,4838,4837,4836,4835,4833,4832,4830,4834,4831,4829,4828,4826,4825,4827,4824,4823,4822,4821,4820,4819,4818,4817,4816,4815,4814,4813,4812,4811"]
Nautical miles paddled: 19
Current location: 36.615926,27.835804
I did find one bar that's friendly, so if you make it here to Symi stop by Φωτεινη διαδρομη.
The sun shone and the water was the calmest I've seen it since before the Aegean. A new chapter of my quest began.
I paddled along the coast of Turkey. The mountains above me were a blend of sweet smelling forest and scrub lands.
I entered a cave and paddled a hundred feet into the side of a mountain, then used my hands to pull myself 50 more. The tunnel was dark and tight; I chose not to go further without a headlamp. Hopefully I will soon be receiving one in the mail.
I crossed six miles to Symi, my last Aegean island.
The town of Ano sits on a wide natural harbor with a view of red and purple Turkish mountains. The harbor is surrounded by steeply climbing pastel and stone houses. It's the tourist season and services like wifi and showers are largely only available to people with money.
It is not a welcoming place, but somehow I've been conned into waiting here for my package of emergency gear. Hopefully it'll come soon.
[gallery type="rectangular" ids="1400499580318,4843,4842,4841,4840,4839,4838,4837,4836,4835,4833,4832,4830,4834,4831,4829,4828,4826,4825,4827,4824,4823,4822,4821,4820,4819,4818,4817,4816,4815,4814,4813,4812,4811"]
Nautical miles paddled: 19
Current location: 36.615926,27.835804
I did find one bar that's friendly, so if you make it here to Symi stop by Φωτεινη διαδρομη.
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